Firearms for WW3

This is all assuming you’re in a rural area with some geographical advantages that may allow you to survive drones, and/or would not be likely to be a heavily targeted area by air strikes and massive artillery. Because in that case, forget protecting your home, you need to be in a deep tunnel underground and hope it doesn’t collapse on you and that whenever you stick your nose out it doesn’t get blown off by a sniper with night vision or a kamikaze drone.

But assuming the most you will have to deal with are gangs of roaming looters and/or small units of soldiers trying to take advantage of the general chaos, then, in order of importance/usefulness from most to least useful, (but they are all useful):Assault rifle.

1. Assault Rifle

The Americans all swear by 5.56mm because it is lighter and you can carry more of it, and perhaps it is enough for most people, but the 5.56 round was also designed to wound and cripple enemy soldiers more than put them down, because a wounded soldier uses up more logistics than a dead one. But you are not a nation, you are one or a few guys trying to keep zombie-equivalents from murdering you and raping your women and goats. Or eating them, or both. So, my preferred assault rifle would still be 7.62 also generally known as .308. It is heavier, but hits harder and if you know what you are doing you can reach out to 800m or so with it relatively accurately. Overall, an assault rifle is the best for all-round capability. it can be used in home defence if needed, it is ideal for all mid-range combat, and can reach out to longer ranges if needed.

2. Concealed Carry Pistol

Personal preference here will rule the day, but the most important points to keep in mind are that you should have a reliable firearm. That means one that will not jam if at all possible, that will feed a bunch of different brand of ammunition without feeding problems and that comes in a common-ish caliber. While a lot of people will avoid revolvers, the fact is that it is almost impossible for one to jam although I have seen video of a Taurus revolver jamming, but I have never personally experienced it myself even when firing many rounds through one. Apparently Glocks are also quite reliable and they hold a lot more shots, but as I wrote before, the idea of spray and pray actually means people shoot less accurately than if they know they have limited ammo. And I am not sure that realistically you will need more than 6 shots anyway, but certainly, it’s always better to have them and not need them. Many 9mm pistols can carry 15 or 20 or even more rounds in one magazine, but ultimately the criteria are reliability, ease of use and accuracy for you and the ability to carry it all the time and keep it concealed but able to reach it and draw and fire it quickly. So, whatever works for you in the end. This would be the “goes everywhere with me gun” in a lawless scenario.

3. Shotgun

Make it a pump action and make it have as many rounds as possible. Pump action because it will feed almost anything without ever jamming, and the more rounds you have in it the better. apparently the Cal-tec can hold up to 25 rounds but people who used them also say it is finicky and not reliable at all, and a straight Remington or moss berg or Winchester pump action sells for little money and will fire anything that comes in 12 gauge through it. It’s the best weapon for home defence and can be used for hunting all sorts of game too, so it’s versatile, even if its range does not extend to rifle ranges.

4. Long Range Rifle

Whether for hunting larger game at a distance, or to secure larger areas from marauders, you want to be able to reach out to at least 1km in an apocalyptic type scenario. Most people will go for a .308 or a 6.5mm creedmoor, but I will opt for a .300 Winchester Magnum, for a number of reasons. Yes you can get to 1,000 metres with a .308, but you have to be doing things very well. While I reached out to 1,000 metres with my .308 the very first time I tried it. And if you can reach out to 1,000 m with a .308, then you can reach out to 1,500 with a .300 WM just as easily and I would say maybe even a little easier. Plus, getting hit by a .300 WM or a .308 is the same in terms of bullet size, but not the same in terms of energy released into the target. At 1,000 m a .300 WM has the same energy as being shot point blank with a .44 magnum handgun. You know, like Dirty Harry. Except you can Dirty Harry someone a 1,000 metres away and worry about wind and bullet drop a lot less than if you tried it with a .308

5. .22 LR rifle and/or decent quality air rifle

You can hunt small game very efficiently with a decent pellet gun. I know I did so throughout my childhood in Africa. A .22LR rifle is a bit more powerful and so easier to reach out further to various small game, but one can feed oneself with a pellet gun quite well if there are plentiful birds, squirrels, and so on in your area. Ammo is cheap and airguns are a lot quieter than firearms.

And that is it. Of course, you may not have all of these or you may have less than ideal versions, but don’t worry too much. The best gun is the one you have when you need it, rather than the one you wished you had but haven’t got round to buying yet.

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